My buddy Tiger is an avid golfer (I would even say he’s a bit rabid). It’s always fun to be around him, especially this time of year, so when he called to say he wanted to go out to celebrate his new high-end driver, I couldn’t resist.
Having heard from a little birdie that Cosgrove’s Clubhouse & Tavern is golf themed, I directed Tiger to the eatery on Greenridge Street in Scranton. Told we could seat ourselves, we headed to the dining room closest to the bar — natch — one of two busy dining areas. We settled at a table near the front, and I watched Tiger’s eyes glaze over as he looked around.
Cosgrove’s is indeed golf themed with tons of old-time photos and even a pair of shoes hanging on the walls. The dining room has a clubhouse vibe, and I knew Tiger was envisioning the back nine through the front window that overlooks the busy street.
That theme doesn’t end with the d�cor; a few sections on the huge menu are named after terms from the sport. We knew we wanted an appetizer, so we started with The Front 9 section. The antipasto immediately struck my fancy, boasting sharp provolone, roasted peppers, salami, tuna, pepperoncini, marinated mushrooms, pepperoni and French bread ($8.95) as did the Cajun ravioli ($4.95). Tiger was interested in the kabobs marinated in buffalo sauce, available in chicken, beef, salmon, shrimp or combo ($5.75-$6.75). After much discussion, we agreed the best bet would be the sampler platter, which includes two wings, wedges, Cajun ravioli, onion rings and mozzarella sticks ($6.15).
Knowing I was in the mood for a dinner and not a burger, wrap, sandwich or salad, I bypassed those ample sections in Cosgrove’s menu and began at the seafood and beef combos. The seafood eater’s mixed grill, with blackened salmon, clams, scallops, shrimp and haddock over rice or pasta ($22.95) sounded delectable, as did the New York Strip grilled and glazed in my choice Jack Daniels, Old Grand-Dad, Southern Comfort or Wild Turkey ($21.95). There’s nothing the Mouth loves more than something doused in Jack, so I made my choice. Until, that is, I saw lemon pepper chicken strips ($13.95), oven-browned and crusted with lemon rind and fresh black pepper in a light butter sauce. Now I found my entr�e!
Tiger spotted the blackened Chilean sea bass special ($17.95) — described as seared with a hint of garlic, lemon zest, green chili and sweet corn relish — and snapped his menu shut. Adding a bowl of crab bisque ($4.75), he too was set.
Our server returned to drop off our drinks and take our order. Unfortunately, she informed Tiger that they had run out sea bass so he scrambled to find something else, settling on his old standby, veal parmesan ($15.95).
Seeing how disappointed he was, I immediately brought up his driver to perk him up as I spied his soup coming our way. The bowl was huge, and even from my seat across the table, I could see the huge chunks of crab and some peppery flakes. Thick, yet not pasty like other bisques, I was able to snag a bite using my fork and didn’t lose a drop. Tiger opined that, while the soup wasn’t too spicy at first, it caught up with him. Judging by the hot flash he had for the rest of our meal, that soup must have packed a mightier punch than my small taste allotted.
Luckily, the salads included with our entrees arrived to cool his palate, both complete with fresh mixed greens, finely chopped carrots and radishes. While Tiger opted for parmesan peppercorn, I had the best dill dressing ever: cool, creamy and heavy on dill. Mmm.
Next came our sampler, with everything fried to a dark golden brown. The wings were more medium than mild and definitely something the Mouth recommends. The wedges were large, but bland, and while the Cajun ravioli were tasty, there was nothing Cajun about them. The onion rings and mozzarella sticks were exactly what they should be, and Cosgrove’s gets points for serving the sticks’ sweet marinara warm, something many places don’t — unfortunately.
After a brief belly respite, our dinners made their appearance. Tiger’s veal parm was two generous pieces smothered in marinara sauce and topped with mozzarella. He liked the sweet sauce and the fact that the tender cuts had crisp edges.
The peppery punch of my chicken mixed perfectly with the lemon on my five moist chicken strips and was surprisingly unsalty. The light butter sauce was indeed light, more like just a hint, and was perfect. I was completely blown away, not only by actually seeing something lemon pepper on a menu, but by how damn good it was. Both Tiger and I chose baked potatoes as our sides and both received an ample spud.
Given the portions — and everything else that came before our dinner — neither of us could finish our meals. As we boxed our leftovers, I couldn’t stop raving about my chicken. While his veal parm was delicious, I knew Tiger was disappointed in not being able to try that sea bass.
Cosgrove’s offers a huge selection from the Mouth’s favorite food groups: fish, chicken, meat, even vegetarian. While the service was friendly, it was a bit spotty. It took nearly 20 minutes for Tiger to get a second draft beer, and I wasn’t asked if I wanted a refill, nor did our server come to check on us once our dinners arrived. The Mouth has eaten out enough to know that everyone has an off night, and we certainly won’t let that stop us from coming back — we look forward to it.
Though I was stuffed, walking out with those three strips of Cosgrove’s lemon pepper chicken, I couldn’t wait for tomorrow’s lunch.
• Cosgrove’s Clubhouse & Tavern
315 Greenridge St., Scranton
570.348.3050
All major credit cards accepted
Hours:
11 a.m.-2 a.m. (bar)
11 a.m.-12 a.m. (kitchen)
11 a.m.-10 p.m. (Sundays)