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MYSTERY MOUTH: Uncorking a masterpiece

Much emphasis is put on revitalization in downtown Wilkes-Barre, but we mustn’t forget about the other jewels that might not be in the downtown proper. Just a few blocks away from Public Square in the city’s North End is the oasis Cork Bar & Restaurant. Nestled in a neighborhood, Cork offers one of the best dining experiences you can find in the Valley from soup to nuts, as they say, and everything in between.

From the second my dining companion Mort and I were led up narrow stairs to the second-floor dining room to the moment we practically waddled out after dessert, Cork was fantastic. Choices on the menu — including the wine list and martini menu — are endless, prices are fairly reasonable (entrees range from $13.95-$28.95, while 12 signature martinis go for what seems to be the local going rate of $8), and the food is wonderful.

But let’s start at the beginning, shall we?

Even though Mort and I were sitting in the first of three upstairs sections with two other couples, our table felt like it was in a semi-secluded alcove, which is always nice. From my eagle-eye view, all three areas were filled with lively diners, but the atmosphere wasn’t so lively that it hindered our conversation. The d�cor, with vibrant artwork hanging on dark gray walls, is elegant but not off-putting.

After taking our time deciding what to drink — I highly recommend the blueberry pomegranate martini, by the way — Mort and I decided to share an appetizer. The coconut shrimp lollipops ($11.95) sounded yummy to me, while Mort hankered for the pork gyoza dumplings ($8.95), but after much discussion, we amicably decided to split the clams oreganato ($9.95).

While I usually cannot pass up a nice homemade Italian dish like manicotti ($14.95), I was in a fishy mood. Once I saw ahi tuna ($22.95), my entr�e choice was made. Mort was tossing around the herb-spiced tilapia special ($18.95) but ultimately decided on chicken Marianna ($16.95).

At last we could turn our attention to our drinks and the three thick wedges of savory garlic bread placed before us. Lightly dusted with rosemary and oregano, these were a tasty precursor to what followed.

Our clams oreganato appetizer included eight littlenecks dusted with breadcrumbs in a lusciously light lemon wine sauce that wasn’t too oily or garlicky.

“I could make a meal out of this, if I had like 20 more,” Mort said.

The dish was so delectable both of us could have eaten our discarded shells. And we seriously regretted not getting a refill on bread to sop up the rest of the sauce. Our included salads came soon after we sadly pushed the empty plate away; small, but a nice intermezzo. I chose the parmesan peppercorn dressing while Mort got crumbled blue cheese ($1 extra) with oil and vinegar.

Having had such a great start to dining at Cork, I eagerly anticipated our entrees arrival and luckily didn’t have long to wait.

Mort’s chicken Marianna was three saut�ed chicken breasts covered with fresh mozzarella atop spinach and a light tomato sauce garnished with a big sprig of fresh basil. He definitely liked Cork’s variation on one of his favorite dishes, especially that the cheese was not singed at all on the edges, as he’s sometimes had. The chicken was tender, the tomato sauce was sweet and the spinach played off the flavors nicely.

My ahi, which I ordered medium rare, included two sizeable peppercorn-encrusted filets on a bed of gingery seaweed topped with a bundle of tasty onion straws. The ahi was done exactly right, and though a lesser mouth would have found the tuna too peppery for his or her taste, for this Mouth, its punch was perfect. The entrees were accompanied by broccoli and cheesy potatoes. While my potatoes were a little cold, Mort’s were piping hot.

Though we both were stuffed — I even had to get half of my tuna wrapped — Mort and I couldn’t resist hearing the night’s desserts, which our sever Dorothy informed were all homemade. Options included cr�me brulee, apple crumb pie, crepes with chocolate raspberry sauce and carrot cake. While Mort pulled for the crepes, I just had to try the apple crumb pie ($5).

Served warm with a scoop of French vanilla ice cream and a dollop of whipped cream, the cobbler-esque pie was delicious, just like grandma used to make. It was the perfect ending to a perfect meal.

Cork definitely has dining well down pat. Our meal was perfectly paced, Dorothy was friendly, knowledgeable and attentive without being intrusive, and even the owner Ruth Corcoran stopped by to check in periodically, which is always a nice touch. Sadly, it seems to be a touch many restaurant owners don’t make anymore, which makes Cork even that much more of a gem.

• Cork Bar & Restaurant

463 Madison St., Wilkes-Barre

570.270.3818

www.corkdining.com

Dinner:

Tuesday-Saturday 4:30-10:30 p.m.

Lunch: Fridays only, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.

Closed Sunday-Monday

All major credit cards accepted.

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