MYSTERY MOUTH: In a class all its own

• AuRants

941 Main St., Duryea

570.451.1500

www.aurants.com

Hours:

Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-midnight

Friday, 11 a.m.-2 a.m.

Saturday, 5 p.m.-2 a.m.

Sunday, 5 p.m.-midnight

All major credit cards accepted.

by Mystery Mouth

With a slogan declaring itself “a separation from the REST,” AuRants (get it?) makes a bold, almost arrogant, statement. Luckily, though, the Duryea restaurant has the good food and service to back up its claim.

From the first nibble of our appetizers to the last savored bite of our entrees, my friend Patsy and I were in foodie heaven. Where else in Northeastern Pennsylvania could we find funky fusion dishes like Southern-fried duck leg, blue crab grilled cheese, kielbasa kebab and venison on the same menu?

After reading some of the item descriptions, Patsy and I questioned why Chef Dave Ciminelli marries so many eclectic flavors in a single dish. After tasting his creations, the only question that remained was “Why not?”

Take the kielbasa kebab ($9) Patsy started with, for example. Already a strong flavor on its own, the smoked kielbasa was wrapped in pepper bacon and roasted. The five sizeable chunks were then served with a homemade jalapeno remoulade and topped with candied blackened cashews. The kielbasa had a hearty snap to it, and when its flavor mixed with the fiery remoulade, it was an exquisite, surprising match.

My pretzel tofu squares starter ($8) offered a milder flavor — or so I thought at first bite. The four extra-firm squares were encrusted in panko pretzel crumbs, pan-fried and served in a pool of raspberry Lambic beer sauce laced with hot sriracha sauce. It wasn’t the spicy sauce that got me, though. That was reserved for the dusting of Ciminelli’s homemade Moroccan spice blend that made the Mouth’s mouth burn as it paired deliciously with the delicate Lambic sauce and crispy tofu.

Having heard amazing things about the blue crab grilled cheese, I had my heart set on having it as my entr�e — until I saw red venison on the menu as a featured protein. Knowing Ciminelli is infamous for his game meat preparations — which were carried over to AuRants from his years at the River Street Ale House — I had to order the red venison morsels ($15).

And I was glad I did. Cut into bite-sized tender pieces, the lightly seasoned and pan-fried New Zealand red venison was incredible and practically melted in my mouth. It was accompanied by a fragrant sweet pea orzo with port wine butter sauce glaze.

One of the highlights of AuRants’ menu is the “piece together protein section,” in which diners build their entr�e by selecting a protein and one of six preparations. Protein choices include sashimi grade ahi tuna, piglet osso buco shanks, free-range Euro-cut chicken or one of the several listed as the featured protein for the day. On our particular evening, those included New Zealand lamb, veal, Hawaiian ono filet and more. The preparations include Mediterranean style, au poivre and norzo plum.

Patsy chose ahi tuna ($16) with the East vs. West preparation — “east” meaning sesame-seared and “west” meaning blackened. The sizeable filet, perfectly rare as she ordered it, was served with pools of ginger maple mustard sauce, wasabi wing sauce (outstanding!) and sriracha. The filet was topped with crispy rice noodles and onion frites. Patsy selected the bacon-smoked gouda mac and cheese side, which was rich and creamy with that distinct gouda taste. It was absolutely the best thing the Mouth ever ate, and I’m sure I’ll rave about it for years to come.

Because Patsy and I felt like we hadn’t eaten since 1972 (and we really wanted to try it), we also ordered the blue crab grilled cheese ($15) I had originally drooled over. Served on ciabatta bread, the sandwich boasted a hefty portion of blue lump crab with marinated artichoke, garlic and muenster cheese. The crab’s flavor really stood out, but out of everything we ate, this had the most neutral flavor and could have used that slight kick we now expected from Ciminelli. Our side, a smattering of crisp pan-fried pencil asparagus with portabella mushrooms, was delicious.

Needless to say, dessert wasn’t an option for us. We didn’t want anything to compete with our dinner’s superb flavors. (Even if that did mean passing up Oreo beignets, Lambic cheesecake or fig creme brulee.)

AuRants can definitely claim to be “a separation from the REST” because it is a separation from the rest.

The food is unexpected — and extraordinary. Ciminelli’s sauces are complex with sometimes explosive flavors, but none of them ever overshadow the main ingredient, be it blue crab, venison, tuna or even kielbasa. That’s a testament to his masterful skill.

The service is second to none, especially that of our server, Alicia, who is Ciminelli’s sister. AuRants was packed, yet Alicia perfectly paced our meals and made us feel like we were her only table, a touch the Mouth never takes for granted because it’s so rare.

AuRants isn’t just an exceptional place to dine out or throw back one of the many brews from its extensive and impressive beer menu. It’s a true culinary happening that isn’t found anywhere else in Northeastern Pennsylvania.